Close-up images illustrating different curly hair types and curl patterns, including wavy, curly, coily, and kinky textures.

 

What's Your Curly Hair Type?

 

Understanding your hair type is the first step towards achieving healthy, beautiful curls. It's not just about whether your hair is straight or curly; the specific pattern, tightness, and shape of your curls dramatically influence how you should care for your hair, what products work best, and how to style it effectively.

For many years, the hair typing system popularized by celebrity hairstylist Andre Walker has been the go-to guide for classifying different textures. While it's not the *only* factor in hair care (porosity, density, and thickness also play crucial roles), identifying your curl pattern using this system provides an excellent starting point.

Let's dive into the world of wavy, curly, and coily hair patterns to help you pinpoint exactly where your gorgeous strands fit in.

Understanding the Hair Typing System

The Andre Walker system broadly categorizes hair into four main types:

• Type 1: Straight hair (not covered in detail here)
• Type 2: Wavy hair
• Type 3: Curly hair
• Type 4: Coily hair

Within types 2, 3, and 4, there are further sub-classifications (A, B, and C) based on the width or diameter of the wave, curl, or coil pattern. 'A' represents wider patterns, 'B' medium patterns, and 'C' the tightest patterns within that type.

Type 2: Wavy Hair

Wavy hair forms an 'S' shape pattern that lies somewhere between straight and truly curly. It tends to be more prone to frizz than straight hair but less prone to dryness than curly or coily hair. Type 2 hair usually has a visible wave even when wet.

Type 2A

Characteristics: Fine, easily straightened waves. The pattern is a loose, stretched-out S shape. This type is often closer to straight hair, especially at the roots, with waves forming mainly from the mid-length down. It lacks volume at the root and can be easily weighed down by heavy products.

Type 2B

Characteristics: More defined S-shaped waves starting closer to the roots. This hair type has more volume than 2A but can still be prone to frizz, especially at the crown. The wave pattern is more distinct and uniform.

Type 2C

Characteristics: Defined S-waves that begin at the roots and may even contain some loose curls. This type is usually thicker and more susceptible to frizz than 2A or 2B. It has more volume and body, but the distinct wave pattern can sometimes be inconsistent.

Type 3: Curly Hair

Curly hair patterns range from loose loops to tight, springy corkscrews. Type 3 hair typically has a definitive curl pattern without manipulation when wet. It tends to have more volume than wavy hair but can be more prone to dryness and frizz.

Type 3A

Characteristics: Large, loose, spirals or ringlets, often about the size of a large marker or chalk. These curls are usually well-defined but can sometimes be inconsistent throughout the head. They have a lot of body and bounce.

Type 3B

Characteristics: Springy, tighter curls, ranging from the size of a marker to a pen. This hair type has more volume and density than 3A and is more prone to frizz. The curl pattern is more consistent and defined.

Type 3C

Characteristics: Tight, corkscrew curls that are typically pencil-sized or slightly smaller. These curls are densely packed together, giving the hair significant volume and definition. This type is more susceptible to shrinkage and dryness.

Type 4: Coily Hair

Coily hair, often referred to as "kinky" or "afro-textured," features very tight curl patterns that can range from small, tight curls to zig-zag bends. Type 4 hair is often the most fragile curl type due to having the fewest cuticle layers. It experiences the most significant amount of shrinkage.

Type 4A

Characteristics: Densely packed, small, springy coils or curls that are about the size of a crochet needle. These coils have a visible pattern and retain moisture better than 4B or 4C, although still prone to dryness.

Type 4B

Characteristics: Tighter, more compact coily pattern that bends in sharp angles, resembling a 'Z' shape rather than a curl. The pattern is less defined than 4A and experiences more shrinkage.

Type 4C

Characteristics: The tightest and most fragile coily pattern. This type is characterized by extremely tight zig-zag bends or coils that may not have a visible definition without manipulation. It experiences maximum shrinkage and is the most prone to dryness.

Why Knowing Your Hair Type Matters

Identifying your hair type is more than just a label; it's a crucial tool for effective hair care:

• Product Selection: Different curl types require different products. Lighter waves (Type 2) can be weighed down by heavy creams, while tighter coils (Type 4) crave rich butters and oils for moisture.
• Styling Techniques: Methods like scrunching, plopping, twisting, or braiding are more effective on certain types than others for enhancing definition or reducing frizz.
• Moisture Needs: Generally, the tighter the curl pattern, the more moisture it needs as the natural oils from the scalp have a harder time traveling down the spiral hair shaft.
• Breakage Prevention: Understanding the fragility of tighter curl patterns (Type 4) helps you handle the hair with the necessary care to prevent breakage.
• Realistic Expectations: Knowing your type helps you set achievable styling goals and embrace your natural texture.

How to Determine Your Curly Hair Type

The best way to determine your hair type is to observe your hair when it's clean and wet, preferably after washing and before applying any products:

1. Wash your hair thoroughly to remove any product buildup.
2. Gently towel dry (preferably with a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt) just enough to stop dripping, leaving it damp but not soaking wet.
3. Let your hair air dry completely without touching or manipulating it.
4. Observe the pattern that naturally forms. Compare the shape and tightness of the waves, curls, or coils to the descriptions above.

Remember, it's common to have multiple curl patterns on your head! You might be a mix of 3A and 3B, or have 2C waves underneath and 3A curls on top. Focus on the predominant pattern or patterns to guide your care.

Beyond the Type: Density, Porosity, and Texture

While hair type is a great starting point, remember it's only one piece of the puzzle. For truly optimized hair care, also consider:

• Density: How many individual strands you have on your head (low, medium, high).
• Porosity: Your hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture (low, medium, high).
• Texture/Width: The thickness of individual strands (fine, medium, coarse).

These factors, combined with your curl type, will give you the most comprehensive understanding of your hair's unique needs.

Conclusion

Identifying your curly hair type using the Andre Walker system is a valuable step in your hair journey. It empowers you to choose the right products and techniques to nourish and style your beautiful natural texture. Don't get too hung up on the labels, though; think of it as a helpful guide to better understand and care for the unique waves, curls, or coils you have.

Now that you have the knowledge, take some time to observe your hair and discover your type. Happy styling!